14th April

So we were talking about getting old and that's a very interesting topic that takes some thinking about. After long rumination I came to the conclusion that getting old is a state of mind related to the disparity between ones mind and body. Let me explain. In my twenties if I thought about doing something I could usually do it. I was not old. In my thirties if I thought about doing something I could usually do it but sometimes it was difficult and just occasionally I gave up or felt like doing so. I was not old but things were creeping up on me quietly. In my forties if I thought about doing something I could sometimes do it but it was always a tough slog and quite often I fell sorrowfully short and usually ended up down the pub having a few pints in the way of solace. In my fifties (where I am now) whatever I think I can do I usually can't and the very idea of trying invokes a feeling of sympathy or cynicism in others who tend to think I have gone mad or am looking to end it all. This is a dangerous age. It's similar to the man who knows just enough about something to make a fool of himself. I expect that when I reach my sixties I will have lost most of my illusions and by my seventies I will scarce remember what those illusions were. This preamble brings me to my main topic of the day and that is todays hike to the (almost) summit of Stack Polly or, as the Scots write it Stac Pollaidh on account of their inability to spell things correctly.

I will never again complain about the road to Achmelvich. Compared to todays sheep track with a tarmac top, the Achmelvich road is akin to a 12 lane LA highway. The trip from Lochinver to the start of the hike was just 17 miles and a sane person would think of a 20-30 minute leisurely drive down a quiet country lane. How wrong that person would be. One hour and twenty minutes of hair raising stop and go with passing places spaced at 50 yard intervals got me in the mood for some mountain peace and quiet. This road was no Cobra. It was more like a psychopathic grass snake on weed. I got the peace that I hoped for. According to my guidebook this hike was only 2.75 miles long gaining 1700 feet. Counting the trek from the contour path to the summit ridge and back you can add another mile to that. However, the track was outstanding - like a rock staircase to the castle of Sauron in Mordor (for you Lord of the Rings afficionados). It was like that the whole way to the top but then the natural and rather spectacular rock formations took over with a vengeance. The summit requires some climbing skills - beyond me with my lousy frame, so I rested my laurels some way between the ridge and the summit from where one picture of me was taken (see below).

The weather was spectacular once again. It did not rain (I am still in shock over that) although it tried in vain to snow at the half way mark. There were times when I had to take off the Rab shell but near the summit it had to go on again. Temperatures were in the 40's. The wind varied throughout the day from none to blowy and cold but remarkably the summit ridge was almost wind free - amazing! I did another video but the software is still not reading the videos. Ho hum, just another problem I have to check out. The whole thing took me 4.5 hours to complete with innumerable stops for photos (and a video!) so an average walker should be able to do this inside 3 hours. Just a little digression here. At dinner (7.30 pm) the sun was so bright that the hotel staff had to lower the blinds in the dining room. If I closed my eyes I felt like I could have been lazing at the side of the pool in Cabo. By the end of dinner there was a howling snow storm and now Suilven has a cap of snow on it whereas earlier today it was clear. What fun!

I did I side trip to Achiltbuie which is the jumping off point for the summer isles. Achiltbuie looked small and nondescript but the summer isles may be a trip for the future.

Well, apart from all that the next big news is that I get a massage tomorrow. Whoopeee! Maybe I will be able to walk less like a crab on Monday morning (ready for Canisp?). Tomorrow it looks like I will be doing a 4 mile coastal walk to the old man of Stoer. Some photos from today:

Me, half way up Stack Polly. Resting against a boulder of Torridonian Sandstone with Cul Mor in the background

The cairn on the ridge of Stack Polly

Quite a drop to the valley floor.

Very relaxed just below the summit of Stack Polly. This is my Spiderman imitation.

Stack Polly from the contour path

The gorse is in full bloom in April

This is how I felt after the walk. Just about sums it up!

Sunlight on Canisp from the hotel. Canisp hike should be on Monday.